Authentic Eastern European flavours at great prices

Restaurant review: Santerra Restrobar, PaphosUsually, when a restaurant first opens, it is wise to let it settle in and find its stride. However, with Santerra Restrobar, the owner has years of local hospitality experience. Even though it had been open for only a week, I was very keen to try it out. As images of the food appeared on my social media, the first obstacle was figuring out exactly where it was. By luck, driving to another restaurant, I recognised the unusual colour of the fence. It is where the lovely Let Them Eat Cake used to be in the Old Town. Santerra has now opened as a trendy, smart establishment with a menu based on Balkan cuisine. The indoor area, with its long bar, was nicely air-conditioned, but we sat in the courtyard at the back, which was surprisingly cool, and the perfect place to meet a friend for a cocktail, glass of wine or iced coffee. It has literally just opened its doors, and we were amazed that on a weeknight it was already rather busy, so reservations are recommended. Eastern European cuisine is inspired by centuries of cultural exchange among countries and is usually hearty and comforting. Maybe something we think of as more appropriate for the winter months, but at Santerra they have adapted it to appeal in Cyprus’ hot months. The selection shares a love of robust flavours, with historical influences from the Slavic and Austro-Hungarian traditions coming through. The selection of cold starters and salads would make a meal in itself. While there are the usual salads, Eastern European influences sneak through in a couple of the starters, with herring being especially apparent. There is also an amazing selection of borscht variations, a sour soup originating in Ukraine. We both liked the idea of an Olivier Salad, and after seeing plates go past the table, we decided to share. Olivier is a traditional salad that is often served at festive, celebratory occasions, and the Santerra version did not disappoint: the satisfying and familiar flavours of ham, potatoes, carrots, peas, onions, pickles and eggs, all combined in their own house mayonnaise. With warm, traditional Lithuanian rye bread on the side, it offered more than enough for two people – the tiny pieces of precisely measured ingredients made for a light summer dish. For mains, there is a selection of traditional Eastern European dishes including Hungarian goulash, dumplings, schnitzel, golubci, plus chicken and salmon options. As a schnitzel lover, my choice was obvious, and my partner chose golubci, essentially stuffed cabbage leaves. The schnitzel was served with a choice of mashed potatoes, fries or rice, so I decided to go with the mashed. It arrived at the table topped with a mushroom sauce, mashed potatoes and sliced pickles on the side. The succulent chicken had been lightly pounded and coated in light breadcrumbs that were satisfyingly dry and not greasy, and it was certainly one of the best versions I have enjoyed. Golubci is a cherished Eastern European dish of cabbage leaves filled with pork and beef, slow-cooked in a rich tomato sauce. It was served in a piping-hot traditional-style pot with yoghurt on the side, adding a creamy element to the meaty flavours. Again, both the main dishes were very generous portions. To finish, you have a host of homemade traditional desserts, including honey or caramel sponge cakes, cheesecake, a fruit tart, or a sweet crepe. We chose the traditional crispy waffle rolls, meant to be eaten without cutlery. Two large waffle rolls filled with dulce de leche, a very sweet, rich butterscotch sauce, made for a sweet end to our meal. What stood out most at Santerra was the value for money. It is rare these days to find starters under €10, mains in the mid-teens, and desserts for under €10. I genuinely thought those days were gone, and it was a treat to go through the menu without worrying about the final bill. Service throughout was excellent. We were not drinking during our visit, but there is an excellent, well-priced wine list with many options. They also have a detailed cocktail list, all priced €10. As a restaurant, they have all the right ingredients for a long and happy future. We will definitely return soon to try the other options on the menu, as I really look forward to experiencing their Hungarian goulash and the blueberry cheesecake. In August, they also have Georgian nights on Fridays, with a dedicated menu that looks very appealing. VITAL STATISTICS SPECIALTY Balkan cuisine PRICES Starters from €8, Salads from €10, Main courses from €12, Desserts from €7 WHERE Santerra Restrobar, Ayios Theodoros 2, Paphos WHEN Tuesday to Sunday noon to midnight CONTACT 26 274002. Reservations advised