Mad dogs and burger men

Restaurant review: The A Burgers, NicosiaIn 2023, Michalis Anagiotos and two of his friends, Nicolas Kourouzides and Charis Aristidou, driven by a shared love of great burgers, opened The A Burgers – initially as a travelling pop-up and eventually as a food truck. Aside from their self-professed love of burgers, the three also, seemingly, share a fondness for Herculean tasks. I say Herculean because there is a reason food trucks were – and, to some extent, still are – something of a novelty in Cyprus. It’s a geographical problem. There is a reason the Mediterranean siesta is an institution older than Christianity. The culprit, in case it wasn’t obvious, is summer. Cyprus is blessed – or cursed – with a long, scorching summer during which temperatures routinely make the simple act of walking down the street feel unnecessarily ambitious. Any activity that can reasonably be postponed until sunset usually is. Now imagine experiencing that same solar oppression while entombed inside a steel-and-aluminium box. And grilling burgers. So here we are, on an August evening, ready to test their mettle. The place is difficult to miss. If the steady stream of customers and delivery drivers doesn’t give it away, the conspicuously illuminated sign reading The A Burgers certainly will. The ‘A’ glows yellow, vaguely resembling a certain golden arch. The trailer itself is finished in stylish matte black with metallic detailing. Closer to the service window, however, aesthetics give way to utilitarian professionalism: spotless surfaces, a spotless extractor hood and seemingly everything arranged at a 90-degree angle. Three metal barrels surrounded by backless stools provide the only seating. The menu sensibly keeps things narrow – three iterations of the beef burger, three of the chicken, a vegetarian option and four sides. The burgers themselves differ primarily in toppings and sauces, with the Hard A being the most generously loaded of the lot, adding an egg, bacon and onion rings to an already substantial proposition. Beef patties come in at a standard 125 grams, while the chicken clocks in at a formidable 220. Best review practice dictates that we try as much of the menu as possible, so my faithful dining companion orders a chicken burger, while I opt for the beef, turning down the offer of doubling up on the patty. We also order some onion rings, a portion of fries and chicken bites. As we sit down to wait, the sizzle of the grill and bubbling of the deep fryer provide the soundtrack, while the unmistakable aroma of comfort food hangs in the air – still enticing on this hot city night. Everything is cooked fresh Within 15 or so minutes, the food is ready. We decide, naturally, to open with the starters. The onion rings are, unfortunately, nothing to write home about – bland, with far too much batter and nowhere near enough onion. Best enjoyed with a hefty dollop of sauce. Luckily, the chicken bites arrive with a side of Sauce A, though they hardly need it. Beautifully tender and toothsome pieces of chicken breast, they are seasoned almost perfectly, with flecks of black pepper visible through the wonderfully crisp coating. A winner. And with eight generously sized pieces for €5.90, they are both filling and affordable. It’s true that you eat with your eyes, and in that regard, you eat very well at The A Burgers. The chicken arrives in a deep harvest-gold crust, while the smashed beef patty is dark and beautifully seared, its crisp, lacy edges spilling beyond the burnished brioche bun. There is restraint where it matters. Tomato and iceberg lettuce provide freshness and crunch; the cheddar on the smash burger brings richness; the sauces add moisture and tang. But none is allowed to overwhelm the reason we’re here. These are burgers built around the meat rather than buried beneath their accompaniments. I instantly regret not doubling up on the smash burger. The beef is deeply savoury, with those wafer-thin caramelised edges providing little bursts of char and crunch. One patty is terrific. But two is how it was intended to be. The indisputable star, however, is the chicken burger, which may be the best I’ve had in a very long time and perhaps one of the best, full stop. At 220g, this is a serious piece of chicken, yet it is remarkably evenly cooked from its thinnest edge to its thickest point. Beneath the crisp coating, the meat remains juicy and tender throughout, seasoned confidently but not aggressively. Nicosia in the summer can be a gruelling, exhausting place. No seaside, no mountains. But what we do have are three audacious madlads in a food trailer, standing in a gravel car park and serving some of the best burgers on the island. VITAL STATISTICS SPECIALTY: Burgers WHERE: The A Burgers, corner of Ifigenias and Armenias streets, Nicosia WHEN: Tuesday to Sunday 6.30pm – 10.30pm CONTACT: 7777-33-88 HOW MUCH: Burgers: €6.90 – €9.90 Sides: €3 – €5.90